Church Street Veterinary Hospital, Mudgee
Animal Information > CATS

• What should I feed my kitten or cat?
• When should I have my kitten desexed?
• What vaccinations should my kitten or cat get and how often?
• Does my cat need a microchip?
• Can I give my cat a bath?
• How often should I worm my cat?
• I think my cat has fleas, what should I do?
• How can I stop my cat spraying in the house?
• What is feline urinary tract disease (FLUTD)?
• When does my cat begin heat cycles and how can I tell?
• Why is my cat scratching at its ears all the time?
• Why does my cat have bad breath?
• Should I clean my cat's eyes?
• How can I stop my cat scratching the furniture?
• How do I train my kitten to use a litter tray?
• What if my cat won't use its litter tray?

What should I feed my kitten or cat? [top]
Once weaned, your kitten is dependent on you to provide a diet that is complete and balanced for its proper growth and development, and for the maintenance of its health as an adult. Premium foods made from high quality ingredients are designed to consistently provide a complete and balanced diet for all life stages of your cat, depending on age, breed, level of activity, pregnancy and health. Kitten or growth, adult, senior and light formulas are available here at Church Street Vets. You can feed a mixture of canned and dry food, although dry biscuits will better help maintain healthy gums and teeth. A complete diet means that supplements are not required. Table scraps, all-meat diets and dog food are not adequate for the long-term health of your cat.

When should I have my kitten desexed? [top]
Desexing of both males and females is recommended before the onset of puberty, generally around 5 - 6 months of age. Spaying of female cats will prevent unwanted pregnancies, the annoying attention of roaming tomcats, and spaying at a young age (before their first season) will prevent mammary tumours (breast cancer) and pyometra (infection of the uterus which is often a surgical emergency). Neutering, or castration, of male cats before puberty will decrease the problems of aggression, urine marking, fighting and the tendency to roam (decreasing the risk of being lost or hit by a car). Medically, castrated cats cannot develop testicular cancer.

What vaccinations should my kitten or cat get and how often? [top]
Vaccination is crucial to protect your kitten or cat against viral disease. Vaccinating your cat stimulates its immune system to produce antibodies against the virus, preventing it from causing disease. There are 2 major cat diseases caused by viruses in Australia that are highly infectious and cause serious illness, even death: Feline Infectious Enteritis (Feline panleucopenia or Cat distemper) and Feline Respiratory disease ('Cat flu').

Two other viral diseases which are emerging as potentially fatal diseases in cats are Feline Leukaemia Virus and Feline AIDs. Both of these diseases have vaccines available that we can order as required. Another common respiratory infection for which a vaccine has recently been developed is Feline Chlamydia. This disease is principally seen as conjunctivitis in young kittens aged 5-9 months, however may affect some cats at an older age, especially if they are unwell or stressed. This vaccine is available on special order.

Kittens are vaccinated at approximately monthly intervals from 6-8 weeks of age until 16-18 weeks of age, and then vaccination is annual. Kittens are given these boosters because the antibodies they got from their mother actually interfere with the effectiveness of the vaccine. Since kittens lose these antibodies at different rates, we give several vaccinations to ensure all kittens will develop sufficient levels of antibodies to protect them during their first year of life. Vaccination programs may vary depending on risk factors, the age of first vaccination, and the type of vaccine used, so ask us for advice on the best program for your cat.

Does my cat need a microchip? [top]
Microchipping is recommended for cats as a permanent and safe form of identification. In NSW, it is compulsory that all kittens be microchipped at point of sale, change of ownership or by 12 weeks of age, whichever occurs first. Unfortunately, many family pets are euthanased every day because they cannot be identified. Microchips cannot be altered and do not fade over time, whereas tags and collars can easily be lost. The microchip is injected under the skin between the shoulder blades and remains there for life, ready to be identified by a special scanner and your pet promptly returned to you if lost. More info about microchipping requirements in the Mudgee area can be found on the Mid-Western Regional Council website.

Can I give my cat a bath? [top]
Giving your cat a bath can be a difficult procedure, with some cats becoming very distressed or even aggressive. Bathing in this case may not be appropriate unless the cat has a skin condition that requires treatment with medicated shampoos, or the cat is particularly filthy. Consider a professional groomer or contact us for advice. Even though cats groom themselves by licking and cleaning, they still need regular brushing and combing to remove loose hair, prevent matting and keep the skin free of diseases and parasites, such as fleas.

How often should I worm my cat? [top]
Intestinal worms such as tapeworm and roundworm are a common cause of disease in cats, especially kittens. Since roundworm can affect humans, particularly children, kittens need to be wormed at 6, 8 and 12 weeks of age, then every 3 months. Adult cats should be wormed every 3 months. Regular worming is essential – while treatment kills worms present in the intestine at the time, re-infections can occur from other pets and the environment. Once is not enough.

I think my cat has fleas, what should I do? [top]
Your cat may have fleas, even if you can’t see them. Fleas can build up rapidly to plague-like proportions under the right conditions. Adult fleas live & feed on your pet but 95% of the flea population live as eggs, larvae and pupae in the dirt, carpet, bedding and cracks and crevices of your home, and jump on your pet to feed on their blood. Fleas can cause itching, scratching, skin allergies, dermatitis, anaemia, and transmit tapeworms. They can bite humans as well. The only effective way to get rid of fleas is to start a flea control program, both on and off your pet.

All fleas must be removed from the cat and its environment, including other household pets. There are many safe and effective flea products available for killing fleas on your dog and cat (also for puppies and kittens), and for preventing fleas reinfesting them. Ask us for advice on the best product for your pet.

Then you need to kill fleas and the other stages of the flea life cycle in the environment. This means flea-bombing areas in the house that the cat can access, treating sleeping areas, baskets, or bedding, and identifying outdoor areas where fleas may exist. This may mean blocking off access to under the house, and using outdoor flea products in places like sandpits or favourite resting areas. Don’t forget the car if you travel with your pet!

How can I stop my cat spraying in the house? [top]
Spraying behaviour is when cats mark territory by urinating small amounts on (usually) vertical surfaces. The act of spraying involves the cat backing up to a surface, raising and quivering its tail, and treading with its back feet as a small amount of urine is directed backwards. Spraying is usually associated with territorial or competitive behaviour, especially in male entire (not desexed) cats. The presence of other cats around the house is a common cause of stress in cats, and may lead to the marking behaviour of spraying. Check with us first to rule out any medical problems. If the problem is behavioural, we may prescribe medication to decrease anxiety or a pheromone spray that helps prevent and stop urine marking, and also settles and calms cats in unknown or stressful environments. Castrating male cats at an early age is the best way of preventing male urine spraying. Keep litter trays clean (using soapy water) and clean any urine marked areas.

What is feline urinary tract disease (FLUTD)? [top]
Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD) includes disorders of the bladder and urethra. The syndrome has several causes, including crystals that form in the urine and which irritate the bladder wall, bladder stones, bacterial infection, tumours and unknown causes (idiopathic). Most crystals in cats are known as struvite crystals. Diet is thought to play a role in the development of struvite crystals, especially the levels of magnesium, calcium, and phosphorus. The pH of the urine is important, as is the amount and frequency of urination. Overweight, inactive cats that tend to urinate infrequently are predisposed to FLUTD, as are cats that have lower water consumption. Stress may also contribute to the development of the clinical signs of urinary tract disease.

Signs include blood in the urine, straining to urinate, urinating small amounts frequently, inappropriate urination – often in the bath or sink, or inability to urinate due to a blockage. If this is not unblocked, signs of vomiting, anorexia, depression, and collapse will occur, followed by death within a few days. If your cat shows any of these signs you need to bring it in to see our vet immediately for prompt treatment.

When does my cat begin heat cycles and how can I tell? [top]
Female cats (queens) reach puberty and have their first heat cycle between 4 and 12 months of age. After this they usually cycle every 3 – 5 weeks from late winter to late summer, although there are variations in individual cats. After pregnancy, the cat will ‘come on heat’ once the kittens are weaned. Heat cycles last around 7 days, sometimes longer, and the cat becomes very vocal, ‘calling’ constantly, arching their backs when stroked, raising their tail and often treading with their hind legs. Spaying your cat at a young age will prevent this behaviour, and also unwanted pregnancies, breast cancer and infections of the uterus.

Why is my cat scratching at its ears all the time? [top]
Any ear problem can cause affected cats to scratch or paw at their ears or shake their heads. Foreign objects in the ear, allergies, ear mites, certain skin conditions and infections with bacteria, fungi and yeasts can all cause ear disease. Check your cat’s ears regularly and if you notice any discharge, unpleasant smell, redness, swelling, lumps or pain, please contact us immediately. A special tool (an otoscope) is required to look down the ear canal to diagnose the problem correctly and prompt treatment will ensure the problem doesn’t become more serious.

Why does my cat drool and have bad breath? [top]
Dental disease is one of the most common problems affecting dogs and cats today. In humans, tartar builds up if we do not remove it by brushing. Likewise in animals, tartar builds up if it is not removed by chewing on raw bones or other gnawing toys, or by brushing. Tartar then develops into calculus, which is the visible hard, yellowy, mineral buildup. Then the gums recede from around the teeth, and other supporting structures for the teeth are weakened, leading to tooth infections, tooth loss and bad breath. This process is called periodontal disease. Apart from tooth problems, periodontal disease can also affect general health as bacteria are released into the bloodstream through the inflamed gums and can lodge in places like the kidneys and heart valves, causing problems in these sites. Therefore, mouth health is important for your pet’s overall health and longevity. If there is a significant tartar build up or inflamed gums (gingivitis), your cat will need ultrasonic scaling by your vet, which needs to be performed under an anaesthetic. To prevent recurring tartar build-up, you can regularly feed chunky pieces of raw beef which your cat really has to gnaw on, or speak to us about starting your cat on a special diet which is designed to reduce plaque and tartar formation. As hard as it may seem, also introduce regularly brushing of your cat's teeth. This will need to be done with a special 'cat' toothbrush and toothpaste. Never use human toothpaste on animals.

Should I clean my cat's eyes? [top]
Cats accumulate small amounts of secretions and debris at the inside corners of their eyes, just like ‘sleep’ in humans. These can be wiped away gently with a damp cotton ball, being careful not to touch or rub the eyeball. Some breeds tend to have more discharges and staining of the hair at the eyelid corners. Products are available to help reduce this discolouration, especially in light-coloured cats, and any long facial hair can be carefully trimmed to prevent irritation of the eyes. If your cat's eyes are weeping excessively, you should contact us as this could be due to conjunctivitis, a serious ulcer, or abnormalities of the tear duct. If a foreign body such as a grass seed is present, your cat may blink excessively and the lids will swell. Symptoms like these or any suspected eye problem should be treated as an emergency to avoid serious complications and, at worst, loss of the eye.

How can I stop my cat scratching the furniture? [top]
Cats naturally scratch objects to shorten and condition the claws, to mark their territory, and to stretch. A lot of cats that have access to outside find their preferred scratching areas outside on a tree or fence, but indoor cats need to find something to scratch, and if a substitute is not available, that will most likely be your new sofa. Teach your kitten to use a scratching post and to play with toys to redirect this behaviour from your furniture and from you. Do not use your hands in a game as this encourages your cat to attack your hand which is difficult behaviour to stop once the cat is fully grown. You can also use positive reinforcement in the form of food treats, praise, and a cuddle when your kitten uses the post or plays with its toys.

Place the scratching post in a prominent area until the behaviour is established, and then you can move it to somewhere less obvious. Indoor cats often need more than one post and cats have varying preferences for the material they like to scratch – such as tightly woven material, Hessian, sisal, or a more loosely woven material where the claws can hook and tear during scratching. Most posts are upright, and need to be taller than your cat in full extension, although some are wall or door-mounted. Providing a play area incorporating the post will encourage your cat as well – there are may play centre-type structures with dangling toys, toys on springs, and even multilayered cubbyholes.

If your cat continues to prefer the sofa to its high-tech pole and play centre, you may need to limit its exposure to those areas. Discourage the behaviour by covering the area with aluminium foil or double-sided sticky tape, or use remote punishment. Never directly punish your cat as this will cause fear or aggression towards you, and at best, the cat learns that it only has to stop the scratching whilst you are around.

How do I train my kitten to use a litter tray? [top]
By about 1 month of age, kittens toilet by themselves, following their mother’s example by digging in loose material (litter or soil). As such, they tend to use litter trays once in their new environment without much training by the owner. Kittens tend to go to the toilet after eating, after they wake up, and after play. Supervise your kitten at these times to ensure use of the litter tray. You may need to confine him to a small area containing the litter tray if you are unable to supervise.

Use a litter tray with short sides initially and keep it as clean as possible. One method is to line the tray with newspaper and provide a cupful of litter in which to eliminate, then the whole contents can be emptied every time it is used. Clumping types of litter allow you to remove small amounts daily. Clean the tray using soapy water and rinse well as strong disinfectant smells may discourage the kitten.

Place the litter tray in a private, quiet environment. Some cats have preferences for the location of the litter tray. You can test this by placing several litter trays in different locations to see which one, if any, is used more frequently. If you are away for long periods, it is a good idea to use more than one so that if one is soiled, your cat can always use the other. Do not place these trays next to each other. In multiple cat households, it is recommended to use one more litter tray than there are cats. Some cats have preferences for the type of litter, and you can determine this by offering a few litter trays side by side containing different types of litter, to determine his favourite.

What if my cat won't use its litter tray? [top]
Many medical diseases can cause a cat to urinate or defecate inappropriately outside the litter tray, so a veterinary exam is required to differentiate these problems from behavioural problems. For example, it is common for cats with cystitis to urinate small amounts in many different areas of the house. Also, diseases that make cats drink more will mean they need to urinate more, and if the litter tray is already soiled, it will seek other areas to urinate. Sometimes older cats with arthritis may find it difficult to get in and out of a tray with high sides, or to negotiate stairs to the litter tray. Stress or anxiety may be a contributing factor, such as moving house, other cats in the house or a new family member. The type of box, the type of litter, its location, and how often and with what it is cleaned are all factors influencing the cat’s decision to urinate elsewhere. Here are a few ideas to help retrain your cat to use the litter tray:

• Location. If there is one particular area the cat is using, put the litter tray there and gradually move it to the location you want the tray to be. Move it about 5cm a day
• Litter tray – the tray itself, the type of litter, frequency of cleaning, and cleaning agents (soapy water is sufficient)
• Decrease the attractiveness of the area the cat is using by cleaning it with an odour neutraliser, by feeding it there, or gluing several bits of dry food on an old saucer in the area. You can put its sleeping basket there, or place double sided sticky tape or aluminium foil in the area.
• Don’t allow access to the problem area.
• Contact us if house-soiling remains a problem.